From Grass to Yarn - Hand-joining Ramie Fibers

Split, join, and twist. As you repeat these motions, the ramie begins to feel familiar in your hands. Little by little, you begin to understand exactly how to move based on the fiber’s condition. It is the sensation of your body learning to respond to the plant. The process is quiet, yet deeply exciting. There is a profound joy in becoming completely immersed in the work.

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"Umu", Making Thread by Ply-joining

You split the fibers, twist and join them with your fingertips, and put them into a container to accumulate. Split, join, and put them in. Over and over again. It is steady, silent work. It takes an immense amount of time, but through this quiet daily repetition, you eventually find a mass of layered thread has formed before you.

It looks simple, but there is a surprising depth to the process. The ramie fibers used here are simply taken by hand from the skin of the plant’s stalk. They are bundles of fine fiber cells held together by pectin and other natural elements. This is a part of a plant’s body. It is the life of the plant.

The fibers grow differently depending on the soil, sunlight, temperature, and humidity. Even the timing of the harvest changes the thickness and length. Some split straight and smooth; others have short cells that fuzz easily. Some are hard, some soft, some thick, some thin. Each is unique. Using your fingertips, your lips, and the tip of your tongue, you sense these qualities and split the fiber to match the thickness of the thread you want to make. But if you try to force it to suit only your own convenience, the fibers tangle and refuse to split cleanly. Your finger movements must subtly shift to harmonize with the body of the plant.

The process of twisting and joining is also quite a challenge. In modern life, we rarely "twist" things, so the fibers often slip at first. It’s not just the index finger and thumb doing the work; the pinky finger works hard to maintain the tension. "I didn't know my fingers could move like this." It is a moment of rediscovering your own body.

Once the fibers are joined, a final overall twist is applied to turn them into what we recognize as "thread" with a rounded cross-section. (While the fibers can be used without this step, twisting makes them stronger and easier to handle.) If the previous steps were done well, this goes smoothly. But if there was too much fuzz during the "splitting" stage, it will snag; if the "joining" twist was too weak, it will pull apart. Every single action affects the next. That is why we treat every step with care.

There was once a time when people obtained cloth only after this painstaking process—working steadily to finally make thread, then weaving that thread into fabric.

At first, your shoulders may rise or you might use unnecessary force because the movements are unfamiliar. This leads to stiff shoulders, cramping fingers, and aches in your arms, elbows, and back. But if you relax and move in harmony with the plant, you become capable of working for long hours. A dialogue with the life of the plant, a dialogue with your own body—deepening, sinking into the silence.

This workshop is the gateway to that experience. Split, join, and connect the ramie fibers to make thread. Four hours of careful, immersive work in a small group.

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Workshop bookings are now open. For details and applications:
https://www.umitomk.com/event-details/kusakaraitoe
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The first photo was kindly provided by Harubaru Zaimokuza, one of our venues.